Step 1 — document immediately
Within 24 hours of the storm: walk the property and photograph every damaged surface, with date stamps if possible. Photograph the storm itself if you can (or save the weather service warning for that date). Take wide shots and close-ups. This documentation is what the adjuster will work from — your photos protect you against an adjuster who shows up two weeks later and minimizes the damage.
Step 2 — mitigate further damage
Tarp the roof, board up windows, move things out of leaks. Your policy requires "reasonable mitigation" — meaning you can't let the damage get worse and then claim it all. Keep receipts for tarps, plywood, or any temporary fixes. Insurance reimburses these as part of the claim.
Step 3 — file the claim
Call your insurance company's claims line (not your local agent — the agent is for policy questions, the claims line is for claims). You'll get a claim number. The adjuster typically calls within 24–72 hours to schedule a property inspection.
Step 4 — the adjuster visit
Don't have a contractor sign you up for anything before the adjuster comes — but DO get one or two contractor opinions on what's actually damaged so you can advocate during the inspection. The adjuster will write a scope (a detailed estimate of what insurance will pay for). Read the scope carefully — missing items at this stage are very hard to add later.
ACV vs RCV — the most important number on your policy
Your policy is either Actual Cash Value (ACV) or Replacement Cost Value (RCV). RCV pays the full cost to replace damaged items with new equivalents (subject to deductible). ACV pays only the depreciated value — a 15-year-old roof with a 25-year lifespan is depreciated to 40% of replacement cost. The gap is huge. Check your policy now, before you ever need it.
- RCV: full replacement cost minus deductible — better for owners
- ACV: depreciated value minus deductible — much smaller payout on older items
- Many policies pay ACV upfront and RCV after you complete the repair (you have to actually do the work to collect the rest)
Step 5 — pick a contractor (after the claim, not before)
Once you have an approved scope from the insurance company, get 2–3 contractor bids using the scope as the spec. The contractor's price doesn't have to match the insurance scope — if they're higher, you can negotiate with the insurance for a supplement, or pay the difference. Beware contractors who promise to "just work with whatever insurance pays" — that often means they reduce the scope of work to fit the payout.
What insurance does NOT cover
- Wear and tear / age-related damage — your 25-year roof at year 24 is not a claim
- Maintenance issues — clogged gutters that caused water damage may be excluded
- Cosmetic-only damage in some states (a dented gutter that still functions)
- Damage from a deferred problem — if you knew about a leak and didn't fix it
- Flood damage — separate flood policy required, NFIP or private
Common questions
- Should I file a claim if I'm not sure the damage exceeds my deductible?
- Get a contractor's opinion first. Insurance claims stay on your record (CLUE report) for 5–7 years and can affect your premium even if the claim is small. If the damage is close to the deductible, often it's better to pay out of pocket. If it's significantly above the deductible, file.
- Can the contractor pay my deductible?
- No. "Waiving the deductible" or "absorbing the deductible" is insurance fraud in every state. A contractor offering this is asking you to commit fraud with them. Walk away.
- How long does the whole claims process take?
- For straightforward roof or siding claims: 4–8 weeks from filing to check in hand, plus the time to actually do the repairs. For larger or contested claims: 3–6 months is normal. Document everything in writing throughout.
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